Pet Corner

New House? A Moving Experience for Fluffy & Fido Too

2011-02-01T21:16:00.002-05:00

Moving to a new home is often exciting, but can also be tough on families. Your family’s pets are no exception to this rule. Animals always seem to know when something's amiss, even if they can't understand exactly what's changing or why. One of the keys to moving with your pets is to keep them secure before and during the move, and to settle them safely and quickly into a routine afterward.
Dogs are generally a bit easier to deal with than cats during a move. Put a leash on and drive Fido to his new address. Show him his new, warm home and the securely fenced back yard. That’s about it. Unless your dog is an Olympic high-jumper, he'll usually stay put while he adjusts. Of course, use good sense and the knowledge of his expected behavior before completely letting him on his own…but you get the picture!
Cats are a particular worry at moving time because they form a bond not only with the people in a home, but also with the home itself. Not so true with free-roaming cats. The cases of cats returning to their previous homes are common for people who move short distances, and the instances of cats disappearing forever are just as common for families moving a great distance. Because of their mobility, cats can be difficult to keep around the new home long enough for them to realize that this is where the people they love will now stay.
Confinement is essential when moving cats. It keeps them safe while they become used to their new territory and make it their own. Bring your cat inside, if she's not already an indoor cat, before the movers arrive. Set her up in a "safe room" - a spare bathroom or bedroom is ideal - and leave her alone. Provide her with food and water, her bed, a scratching post, litter box and a couple of favorite toys while the packing and moving is under way. Fluffy's ride to her new home is best undertaken in a carrier, especially if she has rarely seen the inside of a car.

At the new home, follow the "leaving home" procedure in reverse. Put her into a "safe room" for a few days - until the movers are gone, the furniture arranged and most of the dust settled, and then allow her to explore inside the house on her own terms after things calm down a bit. Quickly re-establish a routine. Pick a time and a place for feeding, and stick to it (for all pets).

Here’s an opportunity…If you've been thinking about converting your free-roaming cat to a house dweller for her health and safety, moving to a new home is the perfect time to accomplish this. In your old home, you'd be constantly listening to your cat demanding to be let out into the rest of her territory. In a new home, she hasn't established any territory of her own yet, and you can make the new home her only turf by keeping her inside from day one.

If you don't want to convert her, keep her inside for a couple of weeks, until she seems relaxed. You can introduce your cat to the new yard by accompanying her on short tours with a harness and a leash. But in the end, you'll have to take your chances, open the door and hope for the best.
Remember ID! During a move, your pet is at a high risk for becoming lost. That's why it's essential to get new ID tags on your pets before you disconnect that old phone number, or to update the ID tags with your permanent cell phone number. If you use a tracking service or microchip ID, be sure they know where to reach you as well by updating your records with the registry. Also, if you're going to need to change veterinarians, let the staff at the old hospital know and provide a working phone number in case anyone calls the hospital because of a rabies tag or other form of identification on a found pet. And finally, check with the animal control department in your new community to get new licenses and find out what regulations cover your pets.
Moving can be stressful for all, but taking a little extra care when it comes to your pets will help to move them safely and with a minimum of stress (and mess!) at your new home. Good luck and enjoy your new digs!

-Doug McKee, DVM

Clay-Duval Pet Emergency Clinic
275 Corporate Way, Suite 200
Orange Park, FL 32073
(904) 264-8281

Fleming Island Pet Clinic
4711 Highway 17 S
Fleming Island, FL 32003
(904) 264-7387

Sunscreen On My Pet?...Get Out!

2010-02-24T12:42:00.004-05:00

As we approach Spring and Summer here in North Florida this question should be considered, but is seldom asked: Should sunscreen be used on cats and dogs?

Yep! The American Animal Hospital Association recommends the use of sunscreen in many animals. Animals that have light-colored noses and thin, very short, or missing fur are most in need of protective sunscreen, or sun block. The groin, inside legs, and belly can also need sunscreen since hair is very thin there, and UV light can actually reflect off of concrete surfaces to affect that skin. Additionally, dogs that lie on their back exposing their belly to the sun may need sunscreen. Pets who have suffered hair loss from allergies, hot spots, disease, surgical preparation, or radiation can benefit from sunscreen. If your dog’s coat is shaved so the she’s cooler during the summer, sunscreen may be helpful.

In pets, sunburn can appear as red skin or hair loss. Sunburn can irritate or worsen existing conditions, such as allergies or hot spots. Pets with light skin and short or thin hair coats are particularly prone to sunburn or skin cancer.

Sunscreen can especially be applied to the bridge of the nose, ear tips, skin surrounding the lips, and any area where pigmentation is light. The sunscreen should be fragrance free, non-staining, and contain UVA and UVB barriers similar to SPF 15 or SPF 30 for humans. The FDA has not established a test to determine SPF values specifically in pets.

Octyl Salicylate products should not be used on cats so check the label before you apply human sunscreen to your cat. There are some sunscreens produced specifically for pets, but using baby sunscreen is also an option. Most human sunscreens have ingestion warnings because the ingredients can be toxic if a child or dog ingests them, so if your pet is likely to lick it, look for a pet-specific sunscreen.

One thing to remember about sunscreen is that you need to use plenty of it, and you should re-apply regularly during sun exposure. It is recommended to use at least 1 tablespoon of lotion or cream for each body area treated! Sunscreen should be re-applied every 4 to 6 hours during the brightest time of the day from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

So, get out there and enjoy the weather that is responsible for our living here! Do it with your pet. Do it with sunscreen on those pets that need it. Enjoy a long, active life, and keep your furry friend healthy to share it with you!

Doug McKee, D.V.M.

Clay-Duval Pet Emergency Clinic
275 Corporate Way, Suite 200
Orange Park, FL 32073
(904) 264-8281

Fleming Island Pet Clinic
4711 Highway 17 S
Fleming Island, FL 32003
(904) 264-7387

2009-06-14T21:00:00.001-04:00

Avoid A Fearful Summer for Your Pets

Here in Florida, we all expect summer afternoon thunderstorms. On the Fourth of July and on Labor Day, as always, Americans enjoy the sights and sounds of fireworks. While we take the storms for granted and love the pyrotechnics, we need to remember our summer weather and nighttime sky show spectaculars are no holidays for many of our pets. While we humans are “oohing” and “aahing,” too often our pets are frightened out of their wits. They'll spend these times under the bed (or in a closet) cowering, shaking, drooling and seeking safety and comfort. Some dogs wouldn't flinch if a keg of gunpowder exploded next to them. Shop vacs, lawn mowers, grass trimmers, motorcycles, thunderstorms and fireworks elicit but a yawn. On the other hand, other dogs treat loud sounds as if the grim reaper were calling. When it comes to loud sounds, these dogs are scaredy-cats. Loud noises can startle and distress many pets, with their supersensitive hearing. Scared pets have been known to jump out of apartment windows, leap over or dig under fences, or chew their skin until it's raw. They may also bolt out an open door to become lost but never found. Comforting scared pets seems the right thing to do, but it's not. Don't reward the fear. If you remain calm and don't baby them, they'll be closer to learning how to handle loud noises. The best defense against fear-of-loud-noise problems is a good offense. Professional trainers and behaviorists start socializing dogs and making every potentially negative experience -- such as fireworks and thunderstorms -- into something rewarding. If a negative experience comes with tasty treats, then your pet is going to at least tolerate it, if not welcome it. This works best when started as a puppy, but don't give up hope if your dog is already an adult. New behaviors can be learned. One way to help your pet is to expose him or her to commercial recordings of thunderstorms or fireworks and play them at increasing volume. Play the recordings at low volume -- recognizing how acute your pet's hearing is -- and give praise and treats. It's a party! As the volume and duration are increased during subsequent sessions, give them really tasty treats so they have the expectation of a repeat treat. Initially, play the recording for five minutes, eventually leaving it on during daily activities as "normal" background noise. Also, provide pets with safe hiding spaces inside your home during the holiday fireworks or a storm. Dogs and cats who are comfortable in crates can find a good place to ride out the noise, especially if the crate is put in a quiet, darkened part of the house. Talk to your family veterinarian if you think your pet is suffering – some really are! He or she may be able to recommend other calming techniques. Some pets are so unhinged by noise that veterinary-prescribed anti-anxiety medications are needed to help them deal with their fears. Again, your veterinarian is the best source of information for this.
This summer, while we enjoy our parades, picnics, fireworks, and weather, don't forget your pet. He's counting on you! Have a cool, fear-free summer!

Doug McKee, D.V.M.

Clay-Duval Pet Emergency Clinic
275 Corporate Way, Suite 200
Orange Park, FL 32073
(904) 264-8281

Fleming Island Pet Clinic
4711 Highway 17 S
Fleming Island, FL 32003
(904) 264-7387

My Cat & the Litter-Box – It’s Not Happening!

2009-03-25T10:13:00.002-04:00

House-training problems - called inappropriate elimination - are the number one cause of behavior-related complaints from cat lovers - and with good reason. No one likes to deal with urine and feces in a litter box, much less in a part of the house you didn't expect to find them. Cats who can't be convinced to use the litter box all too often end up looking for a new home. For these animals, the outlook for a happy life is not good.
Fortunately, most cases of inappropriate elimination can be solved if you're determined to look at things from your cat's point of view, make a few adjustments, and remain patient. The first step in getting your cat to use the litter box is to figure out why he's not using it.
Medical Problems: Always rule out a medical problem - sometimes a urinary-tract infection. These infections give the cat a "sense of urgency" to urinate even when the bladder is not full. Urinating may even be downright painful in more severe cases. Your cat may come to associate the use of the box with these unpleasant sensations, and so avoids the box. Additionally, some medications that address anxiety-related causes for litter-box avoidance may help in the short-run. Talk to your veterinarian. Even if your cat checks out fine, you still need to make sure that everything about the box is to his liking.
Cleanliness: Cats are fastidious animals, and if the litter box is dirty, they look elsewhere for a place to go. Think of how you felt the last time you were faced with a dirty public restroom and then you can probably empathize! Clean the box frequently, twice-a-day is ideal, and make sure that it's completely scrubbed clean and aired out on a weekly basis.
Box type and litter: Many choices people make to suit their own tastes don't match what their cat wants. When you're talking boxes and litter, your cat's opinion is the only one that really counts. Many times the offending box or litter is one chosen in an attempt to reduce smell for people, but your cat can still smell just fine. A covered box may seem more pleasing to you, but your cat may think it's pretty rank inside. Likewise, scented litters may make you think the box smells fine, but your cat may disagree. Not only is the box dirty, he reasons, but it's got this extra "clean" odor he can't stand. Go back to basics: a simple box and plain litter. Many cats prefer clumping litter, and this variety makes the box easier to keep clean, too. Just skip the deodorizers. Another option: Two litter boxes. The “rule-of-thumb” is to have one more litter box than the number of cats in the household.
Location: Your cat's box should be away from his food and water dishes (you don't eat near the toilet, so why should your cat?) and in a place where he can get to easily and feel safe in. Consider location from a cat's point of view: Choose a quiet spot where he can see what's coming at him. A cat doesn't want any surprises while he's in the box. You should also experiment with additional boxes in your house, especially if you've got more than one cat. Urine and feces are weapons in a war over territory: Some cats share boxes; many don't.
Make the area where you cat has had mistakes less attractive by cleaning thoroughly with a pet-odor neutralizer (available in pet-supply stores or catalogs) and covering with foil, plastic sheeting, or plastic carpet runners with the points up to discourage reuse of the area. Enzymatic pet-mess cleaners take time to work, so figure on keeping the area blocked off for at least a couple of weeks. If this procedure doesn't clear up the problem, you may need to retrain your cat by keeping him in a small area for a few days. Make sure that the safe room has no good options besides the litter box - no carpet, no pile of dirty laundry. Block off the bathtub - keep an inch of water in it, to discourage its use as a place to go. After your cat is reliably using the litter box, let him slowly expand his territory again.
As long as you keep up your end of the bargain and keep the litter box appealing, your cat should keep his end up (or down in the litter-box), too. Good luck!!

Doug McKee, D.V.M.

Clay-Duval Pet Emergency Clinic
275 Corporate Way, Suite 200
Orange Park, FL 32073
(904) 264-8281

Fleming Island Pet Clinic
4711 Highway 17 S
Fleming Island, FL 32003
(904) 264-7387

Your Dog's Aggressive Behavior - Don't Live in Denial

2009-01-13T14:34:00.002-05:00

Many people who have dogs with aggressive tendencies often live in denial, not recognizing how dangerous their dog truly is, and they're unable to accurately report or understand the animal's behavior. Many of these dogs are loving pets ... "except." “Except around children…except around men…except around their food dish or toys...except when accidentally cornered.”
Those who love and share their lives with these dogs often try to avoid situations that seem to trigger aggressive behavior, but they worry that trying to manage an aggressive dog may not be enough. With good reason: It often isn't.
I don't care how much you love your dog: If you believe there's any chance some person (most typically a child) will be injured by your pet, there are no excuses for you or your dog. While some dogs with aggression problems cannot be reformed, many can, sometimes with a combination of medication and re-training, and always with a big dose of “dog-savvy” on the part of the owner.
Are you kidding yourself about your dog? Answer these questions and be brutally honest:
Has your dog ever "stared you down"? If your dog gives you a hard, fixed stare, you need to recognize it for the challenge it is.
Does your dog adopt a dominant posture with you or other people? A dog who's trying to be boss will be up on his toes, with his legs stiff, ears forward and his hackles raised. His tail will be held up or out, and may even be wagging a little. Don't confuse the latter for friendliness. There's a big difference between the wide, relaxed wag of a friendly dog and the stiff, tight one of an aggressive animal.
Do you avoid doing certain things around your dog because they elicit growling or a show of teeth? I've known people who live their lives in fear of their dog, avoiding the animal when he's eating, sleeping, or playing with a toy ... the list can be endless.
Do you consider your dog safe, except around a particular group of people, such as children? When he growls at the veterinarian, do you tell yourself the behavior is reasonable because the animal thinks the doctor is "threatening him?"
Has your dog ever bitten anyone? Whatever the reason, no matter the excuse, a dog who has bitten once is more likely to bite again than is a dog who has never bitten at all.
A "yes" to any of these questions means you do have a problem, and you need to find help. What can be done? I recommend that you consult with your veterinarian without delay. He or she can either specifically advise you what to do, direct you to resources you can find to aid in helping with your particular situation, help recommend a trainer with experience in canine aggression, or in some cases assist in getting a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. If a dog's owner isn't willing or able to get help, euthanasia for the animal is sometimes an unfortunate, but necessary recommendation.
There are several forms and causes of aggression in dogs. Often, it is a very difficult topic to address for pet owners and veterinarians alike...but it must be done. Don't try to pass the problem along to someone else because it's hard to do what needs to be done. If your dog cannot be trusted seek help. Take responsibility. You may be sparing a child a lifetime of fear and disfigurement, or you may even be saving someone's life. Good luck!

Doug McKee, D.V.M.

Clay-Duval Pet Emergency Clinic
275 Corporate Way, Suite 200
Orange Park, FL 32073 (904) 264-8281

Fleming Island Pet Clinic
4711 Highway 17 S
Fleming Island, FL 32003
(904) 264-7387

Let’s Keep the Cheer in the Holidays for You and Your Pet

2008-11-12T13:26:00.002-05:00

Thanksgiving is at hand, and the rest of the Christmas and holiday season is just ahead. It's a busy time, but you need to make sure in the whirl of activities that you aren't ignoring any danger to your pets.
At this time of year it is important to consider some of the most common holiday hazards for pets: feeding problems, foreign-body ingestion and accidental poisoning. The bad news is that many pets will end up at your veterinarian's office or emergency clinic this holiday season. The good news is that yours won't be among them if you keep an eye out for these hazards.
Feeding problems: Your pet knows something special is cooking and he lets you know he's interested - just look at those begging eyes! How can you resist slipping your pet a little something special: a big piece of turkey skin, a handful of chips with dip, some slices of salami? Resist or your pet could be spending his holiday at the emergency veterinary clinic.
Foods too rich, too fatty, too spicy - or anything your pet's not accustomed to - can trigger a bout of intestinal upset. For some animals, the treat can trigger a serious inflammation of the pancreas or intestine, and that means a life-threatening illness.
What to avoid? Anything you wouldn't eat your pet should avoid, too. While a little bit of meat - beef or poultry - won't hurt and would be appreciated, steer clear of the fatty parts and the poultry skin, which also harbors fat.
No one's saying your pet shouldn't enjoy a special holiday meal, too, but limiting the kind and amount of special food will ensure that it is a treat - not a trouble.
Foreign-body ingestion: Poultry bones may seem like the perfect gift for the pet that has everything, but do her a favor and save them for the soup. (Broth is a wonderful treat poured over your pet's regular food.) Even the largest turkey bones are prone to splintering, sending shards through the animal's intestines. Should one pierce through the lining, the result can be deadly peritonitis.
While cooked poultry bones are out, some beef bones can be safely substituted. Knuckle bones (for large dogs) and oxtails (for small ones) stand up to vigorous gnawing, providing your pet with hours of messy fun. Check at your meat counter for these inexpensive treats. Supervise your dog's chewing, and throw them out after a few hours of attention, or if they get broken into pieces that can be swallowed.
Some dogs prefer to eat bones rather than just chew on them, and if you've got one of those, closely keep an eye out to make sure the bones aren't causing internal problems. A pulverized bone can solidify like concrete in an animal's lower intestine, causing constipation and, occasionally, blockage that must be removed by a veterinarian. Remember still…everything in moderation!
The Christmas tree is full of hazards for dogs and cats. Tinsel can be an appealing target for play, but if ingested, it can twist up the intestines. This is a particular danger to cats and kittens, which seem to find tinsel - along with yarn, ribbon and string - especially appealing to eat.
Ornaments, too, are deadly in the mouths - and stomachs - of pets, and even the water at the base of the tree contains secretions that can at the very least cause a “stomachache.” Light strings are no good for chewing, and the whole tree can come down on the cat climbing in branches. Some dogs may even be inclined to break the rules of house-training on a freshly cut tree. Why else, they reason, would anyone bring a tree into the house? The best way to handle the situation is by making the tree off-limits to your pets unless you're there to watch and keep them out of trouble.
Poisonings: Holiday plants such as mistletoe may look intriguing to your pet, but they're also toxic, as are the bulbs of the amaryllis plant. (Long the poster child for holiday poisoning, the falsely maligned poinsettia can be safely welcomed into the pet lover's home.) And before you share your holiday candy with your pet, be aware that chocolate is toxic to dogs, and may be deadly to the little dog that gets a good-sized piece. Again, the best cure is prevention. Keep all dangerous plants out of the reach of your pets, and keep the candy dish available to people only!
Call your pet’s veterinarian if you have any questions. If you do not have a regular relationship, establish one so you can feel confident about your pet’s care. He or she is your best source for advice on your pet.
One more thing that can help the “cheer” of our beloved pets: Don’t forget your local shelter or favorite animal benevolent organization during this time of thanks and of giving. They’re always in need of our support.
Please have a safe and happy holiday season. Remember that “an ounce of prevention” and a “pinch” of common sense can improve your entire family’s likelihood of just that!

Doug McKee, D.V.M.

Clay-Duval Pet Emergency Clinic
275 Corporate Way, Suite 200
Orange Park, FL 32073
(904) 264-8281

Dental Health in Your Pet…Yes, It Should be a Priority

2008-02-09T12:51:00.000-05:00

When I first started in practice in 1990 pet owners were often astonished when I began extolling the virtues of caring for their pet’s teeth. Pet lovers would often act almost incredulous at the thought of brushing their pet’s teeth or emphasizing oral health care in any way. Today’s pet lovers often act guilty if questioned and they do not include dental care in their pet care repertoire. This is a classic case of ignorance becoming guilt…it is actually progress because pet lovers have allowed veterinarians to educate them on the best possible care for their furry loved ones. The result is an awareness of the benefit of good dental health from the beginning.

Veterinarians generally recommend training even puppies and kittens to accept having their teeth brushed. It is really not that difficult if you approach the job positively, taking it slow and easy, then following the task with something the pet likes like playtime or a food treat.

Adult pets should have their mouth, teeth, and gums checked at every annual physical examination done by their veterinarian. Recommendations may include a complete dental cleaning under general anesthesia. The procedure usually takes about forty-five minutes and involves not only cleaning and polishing the teeth but also checking for and treating gum disease and broken or rotten teeth.

Because pets don‘t often get their teeth brushed regularly and heavy tartar build up often results, a “routine” dental cleaning on your pet is more like what a periodontist does during a “deep gingival cleaning” versus what a hygienist does at our general dentist’s office… thus the need for general anesthesia. Today’s anesthetics are dramatically safer than even a few years ago. This makes the dangers of dental related health risks (e.g. kidney and heart disease) and pain more of a problem than the risk of anesthesia, even in older pets. Of course, only you and your veterinarian can determine the risk versus benefit to your individual pet.

After the dental problems are treated at-home care can help prevent future disease. Here are a few helpful tips:

Brush or wipe your pet’s teeth regularly (at least twice a week, daily is best) using a tooth paste made for pets…they don’t know to “rinse and spit” so when they swallow the pet toothpaste it won’t upset their stomach. Many pet friendly flavors are available to further aid in the process.

Use a very soft toothbrush or one made especially for pets. You can use a soft cloth or gauze sponge wrapped around a fingertip or a specially made fingertip brush. Cats may appreciate the cloth or sponge to be dipped in clam or tuna juice when you first get started.

Dry food is generally considered better for dental health and many teeth-cleaning toys are also available. Soft chew toys and a chew rope can also help keep teeth clean.

Remember, pets need you to look after their dental health. It is estimated that 85% of all dogs and cats have some degree of dental/gum disease. If you don’t want to receive a kiss from your furry family member because of “bathroom breath” then your pet needs a dental examination and probably a cleaning. It will ‘take’ your pet’s ‘breath away’ and almost certainly improve everybody’s quality of life.

One more thing…February is Pet Dental Health Month!

Doug McKee, D.V.M.

Orange Park Animal Hospital, Inc. Clay-Duval Pet Emergency Clinic
1244 Park Avenue 275 Corporate Way, Suite 200
Orange Park, FL 32073 Orange Park, Fl 32073
(904) 264-6561 (904) 264-8281

New Years Resolution…At Least for Your Pet!

2007-12-28T21:14:00.000-05:00

In conjunction with reports that people are getting fatter, veterinarians are seeing fatter pets wallow into their practices. In most cases, the reasons are the same for pets as they are for people: too much food and not enough exercise.

Obesity in pets causes many of the same problems it does in people: diabetes, joint/ligament/tendon difficulties, breathing and heart maladies. Overweight cats can even develop skin problems from an inability to properly groom themselves. The overall impact on daily comfort and life-span can be dire indeed.

Some good news to consider is that pets can’t open the refrigerator like we can, nor are they licensed to drive to the local fast-food drive-thru window. What our pets eat is totally dependent on, well…us. Pets are usually up for a walk, a game of fetch, or play with a toy on a string even if we are not. Even if it’s not our favorite thing to do, why not give our pets the chance to play and shed those unhealthy extra pounds? After all, they love to move, especially if we are moving along with them.

Dogs and cats have some padding on their trunk normally…but not too much. You should be able to feel their ribs immediately under their skin. If there is a “fatty-pad” between the skin and ribs, your pet is probably overweight. The more “fatty-pad” present, the more overweight he or she likely is.

Remember though, crash diets are not good for pets. Fat cats especially can develop a potentially life-threatening fatty liver problem. It takes time for pets to get fat, and as such, they should be given time to change metabolism rates, eating habits, and exercise regimens to achieve a healthy loss of weight.

Where do you start? If your pet is truly overweight, the best place to start is at your veterinarian’s office. He or she can examine your pet and likely recommend tests that will make sure your pet doesn’t have any medical problems that might make lifestyle changes difficult or dangerous. Your pet’s doctor can also make diet recommendations that should help.

A few hints: Carve out some time to walk your dog or play with your cat at least three times a week. Anything that gets them running is usually best. Whatever food regimen you and your veterinarian come up with, STICK TO IT! Avoid the common habit of expressing your love for your pet by constantly handing them treats. Mini rice cakes or carrot sticks are usually readily accepted by dogs and are a healthy alternative to more conventional, high-calorie treats.

Just like any change, it will be hard in the beginning, especially with those begging eyes peering at you. Resist the temptation to give in. Your pet will have a longer, healthier life…and a Happier New Year!

Doug McKee, DVM